There was a lot of political unrest happening. I wanted something bolder and toughened up. The beat of what’s going on.

During his research, which centred on Marseille and Arles, the designer also went back to the corset factory Dior himself used in the 1950′s, as well as to the home of Marie-Laure de Noailles (who he was delighted to discover was related to the Marquis de Sade). Down south, he also connected with “the passion of the bullfight,” which is a reference the Spanish designer returns to again and again.

But Galliano is as savvy as he is spectacular. Genuine couture buyers number in the hundreds and few will be up for a blood-soaked ballgown, however beautifully constructed. No, the real value of the show is in its marketing power for the Dior brand — in all those sunglasses, perfumes and handbags that will be sold off the back of the mystique of the House. And Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette biopic opens next month…